Introduction
In this article and the ones that will follow, we will examine analytically the equipment used in Freediving. We will talk about the different variations of it and the choices found in the market while finally, we will suggest those which we consider good buys so as to save time and money.
The Mask
The mask is that part of equipment that allows us to see in the water. Without it, our eye cannot capture clear pictures and our vision is blurry and unclear. Ancient Greeks, not having masks of course, would dive having their mouths full of oil. When they wanted to see something a bit more clearly, they would release it, improving their vision barely enough. The reason a mask allows us to see clearly underwater is that the eye has evolved so as to focus on the rays of light when the pupil of our eye is in contact with the air. Therefore, the mask does exactly that. It creates a layer of air between our eyes and the water surrounding us and that is how we can see clearly beneath the water. Thankfully, since by this manner we can keep the olive oil for our food.
The mask as we know it today, (covering the eyes as well as the nose) first appeared in the early 1930’s thanks to the ideas of the Russian Alec Kramarenko and the French Yves Le Prieur and Maxime Forjot. The reason a mask should cover our nose is because during our dive, the ever increasing pressure makes the mask “stick” to our face gradually stronger, causing even injuries. By blowing through our nose a small quantity of air in the interior of the mask, this pressure is overcome and the dive can be continued without any other problems.
The parts of the mask
Most modern masks are consisted of 4 parts.
1) First of all, the “apron” or “skirt”. It’s the part of the mask that is now made of silicone and comes in direct contact with our face. The shape of the “skirt” is designed so as to fit the “average” face shape, with small differences. This is the reason (combined with the fact that silicone is very elastic compared to other materials such as rubber) why most of the masks found on the market fit most faces without letting any water leak in.
2) The skeleton. This part of the mask is usually made out of plastic and is the meeting point of the “skirt” with the rest of the mask, on the opposite side of the part that comes in contact with the face. In modern masks, the dimensions of the skeleton are minimal so for these masks to achieve a very small internal volume (more on internal volume in future articles). The skeleton is used to support the crystals (or even simply one crystal) and the tightening strap that holds the mask to our face.
3) The crystals. Made of glass and rarely of plastic, they are usually manufactured from tempered glass so if something causes them to break, they will shatter in small pieces that will not cause serious injuries or cuts to the eye. These kind of crystals have a small “T” printed on one of their corners. Some masks have a single crystal (mostly suitable for scuba diving) while masks meant to be used in freediving and spearfishing have two crystals. There are masks with “tinted” crystals or even one side mirrors so as not to allow the fish to get a glimpse of the eyes (something that supposedly doesn’t scare them as much). These crystals, in my opinion are not suitable for freediving or spearfishing since the diving buddy can’t see the eyes of the diver. This is very important since the eyes give great information about the situation of the diver when he/she emerges from a dive.
4) The tightening strap. This part is also made from silicone and fits on the sides of the skeleton. There we will find special clips with which we can adjust its length. By doing so, the mask can be fitted on several head sizes or even on our own head when the thickness of the wetsuit varies (the thickness of the suit affects seriously the perimeter of our head). On the back side, it is wider to avoid any skidding and to distribute pressure to more than one point on the head.
Small and bigger secrets concerning the masks
1) For those who wear glasses to improve their sight, some manufacturers offer special lenses that can be fitted in the interior of the mask so our vision can be parallel to wearing our glasses. Of course, if we prefer one mask in particular that doesn’t offer such lenses, there are optics stores (usually owned by divers) which can manufacture lenses for almost any mask.
2) The mask that seems to “fog” up doesn’t have a flaw. Because of the material used to create it, when a mask comes out of the factory, it has on it and on all of its surfaces, traces of silicone oil. The one found on external sides does not bother us. The one nevertheless found in the interior, creates the “fogging” noticed a bit after we enter the water with the vapors turning into water on the inner surface of the crystals. It is actually the same affect our breath has on a window. To avoid this annoying phenomenon there are several solutions based on the same standards. A new, thin membrane has to be created in the inner surface of the lenses that will maintain their clarity. This can be achieved by several ways:
a) The classic method, guaranteed and easily applied everywhere with zero cost, is to spit a quantity of saliva in the mask and rub it on the surface of the lenses so it will go everywhere. After, we don’t rinse the mask completely, just dipping it quickly in the sea and wearing it. The only problem is repeating this procedure every time we take the mask off on our freediving or spearfishing trips.
b) Instead of saliva, we can use the inner part of potato peels. Of course this method has the disadvantage of having to carry potatoes along with your gear…
c) Instead of saliva or potato peels we can use seaweed, but the disadvantage here is that we have to look for seaweed before we dive.
d) Instead of all of the above, we can use a special “anti-fog” liquid sold in specialized stores. The disadvantage here is the fact that it is not free and that it’s one more thing we have to remember to take on our trips.
Sometimes, especially when a mask is new, all of the above seem to have zero results, with the mask “fogging” constantly. That is why in some cases, we have to “burn” the mask. By using a lighter we burn the inner side of the crystals until they become black. By doing so we burn the silicone oil. Be careful not to burn yourself or the rest of the mask! Burning the mask of course, cannot be applied on plastic lenses. In this occasion (this can be applied on all lenses) we can wash the mask with detergent used in cleaning plates or even leave it there throughout the night. Another solution is washing the interior of the mask with toothpaste. Of course all of the above can be applied one after another for even better results.
3) The mask that causes headaches. Usually it is as simple as loosening the strap. The mask should be fitted loosely merely not allowing water to enter inside. We start off by tightening bit by bit, up to the point when water is not leaking in. On any other case, after many hours of use, pain will appear in our head. Headaches can also be caused by other situations, but this is not to be analyzed now.
4) The mask that leaks water. As we said in the beginning, modern masks have very elastic “skirts” that are made to fit on any kind of face. The correct way to choose a mask in the store is to place it on our face with our hands and to suck lightly a bit of air through our nose. If the mask “sticks” to our face (without us sucking any more air) and stays there for a little time, then the mask probably fits us. If it falls off our face, it means air is slipping in, something that can be translated to water leakage in the sea. Very common causes of “flooding” are beards. I have seen many men with beards or that have not shaved recently, complaining of water leakage. There are two solutions: New razor and a good shave, or a good search in the market to find a mask that is suitable for their beard. If you choose the second, you must be armed with great patience and must also be aware that you may only find something too big in volume or ugly to the eye.